Craster

 

The small fishing village of Craster is situated on the picturesque Northumberland coast 8 miles from the pretty market town of Alnwick. The village lies south of Embleton and the stunning sandy beach of Embleton Bay, and is just over a mile from the impressive ruins of the Dunstanburgh Castle. Craster has a small harbour and for many years has had a herring-curing business. Craster kippers are well known around the world. The village is named after the Craster family who had held the estate since 1272. 

The ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle can be seen from the village and are easily accessed of foot via a 1.3 mile grassy path. Beyond the castle are stunning views of Embleton Bay. In addition to Robson's Smokehouse the village has a cafe and public house, providing much needed refreshment after a bracing walk along the coast. Parking in the village is limited but on entering the village the quarry car park, just a short walk from the harbour is recommended, although it can get full very quickly at weekends and in the summer. At the entrance to the car park is a tourist information centre and public toilets.

Dunstanburgh Castle

Dunstanburgh Castle was built in the 14th century on the Northumberland coast between the villages of Craster and Embleton. The castle was built between 1313 and 1322 by Earl Thomas of Lancaster on the site of an existing earthworks of an Iron Age Fort. Thomas was the leader of a baronial faction opposed to King Edward II and built the castle as a refuge. He was captured at the Battle of Boroughbridge attempting to flee royalist forces for the safety of Dunstanburgh and was executed. Subsequently the castle became the property of the Crown before passing into the Duchy of Lancaster. The defences were expanded in the 1380's by John of Gaunt, the Duke of Lancaster. During the War of the Roses in the 15th century the castle formed a strategic northern stronghold, changing hands between the Lancastrian and Yorkist factions. In 1604 King James I sold the castle to the Grey family who owned it until the 19th century. In 1930 the castle was placed under the guardianship of the state and during the Second World War was used as an observation post. The ruins, which are open to the public are part of a Site of Special Scientific Interest.

Alnmouth

 

The attractive village of Alnmouth is situated on the picturesque Northumberland coast about 4 miles from the market town of Alnwick and 9 miles from Craster. The village with its glorious sandy beaches is located at the mouth of the River Aln with stunning views out to sea. The sand dunes are an excellent birdwatching spot and the beach a wonderful place to while away the hours. Once a busy port the village with its colourful houses and abundant wildlife is now popular with tourists seeking a tranquil place to relax, walk, soak up the history and even play a round of golf. 

The village has a selection of small shops, coffee shops and restaurants and just a short walk away is the attractive harbour and old Ferryman's Hut. The beach is split into three sections within Alnmouth Bay and on the opposite side of the estuary on top of the steep Church Hill is St Cuthbert's Cross, said to be the location where St Cuthbert agreed to become Bishop of Lindisfarne. The beach car park provides easy access to the both the beach and the village.

Alnmouth village (meaning "at the mouth of the River Aln") was founded in 1152 by William de Vesci, who was granted a charter to hold court and establish a settlement on a spit of land in the manor of Lesbury. In the early 13th century Eustace de Vesci was granted royal permission to establish a port and Wednesday fish market. The port supported a small fishing industry and engaged in national and international trade. For a time it was a leading north-east centre for the export of grain and other foodstuffs and specialised in the import of timber and slate. 

In 1806 a violent storm resulted in a notable change in the course of the river, resulting in the loss of the village's original church. The functioning of the port and its associated industries were disrupted and by the end of the 19th century port activities had declined and the port deteriorated. With the coming of the railway Alnmouth was transformed from a fishing port into a coastal resort, with a holiday camp, golf course, bathing house, beach huts and sea-view villas. 

The picturesque village remains a popular holiday destination and in 2020 was rated as among the "20 most beautiful villages in the UK and Ireland".

Buxley

 

Buxley is a hamlet in the Scottish Borders about 1.6 miles east of the town of Duns and not far from the small village of Edrom. Buxley is surrounded by countryside and is the home farm and estate offices of neighbouring Manderston House. It comprises, cottages, offices, a dairy and other farm buildings. Most of the buildings were built between 1897 and 1900 for the owner of Manderston, Sir James Miller, 2nd Baronet. 

Etal

Etal Village

The quaint village of Etal is situated in North Northumberland about 10 miles from Berwick-Upon-Tweed and not far from the battle fields of Flodden.  It lies peacefully on the banks of the River Till and is overlooked by the remains of Etal Castle. The Main Street is lined with picturesque cottages and a thatched pub. Opposite, the Lavender Tea Room serving excellent food is the perfect way to relax and indulge yourself. The castle overlooks the peaceful River Till where walks and picnics beside the river in this idyllic location are a wonderful way to spend the day.

Etal and the neighbouring village of Ford are part of the Ford and Etal Estate, owned by the Joicey Family since 1908. However, a settlement has existed at Etal since at least the 12th century when a manor or estate were granted to the Manners family by the Norman Barony of Wooler in return for military support when needed. The family built first a wooden hall, replacing it with a stone building before building a tower house in 1341 which was extended in 1360 to become the castle, whose remains are seen today. In 1748 the owners moved from the Tower house in the castle to Etal Manor at the other end of the village. 

Etal became a busy village with ferry services across the river and nearby water mills. In the 1700's Etal Colliery was opened about one and half miles to the northeast of the village along with other smaller local mines. By the early 20th century these has all closed and the village was purchased by the 1st Baron Joicey of Chester-Le-Street, creating the Ford and Etal Estate.  

River Till

Etal Castle
Etal Castle was built about 1341 by Robert Manners to defend Etal against the Scots. The Manners family had lived in the village since 1232 and the castle remained in the family until the end of the 15th century when the current owner, George Manners moved his family away and abandoned the castle. During the border wars with Scotland the castle housed a garrison and was used to defend the area. In 1547 the castle was bought from the Manners family by The Crown and in 1603 passed into private ownership. In the 18th century it ceased to be used as a residence and fell into ruin.

The castle is open to the public and is a fascinating insight into life at the castle during the turbulent border wars.

Etal Castle

 

Etal Castle

St Mary The Virgin Church

The first church in Etal was built by Sir Robert manners in 1345 and was located on the banks of the river  a little downstream from the village. By the early 19th century it had fallen into decay. In 1856 the chapel of St Mary the Virgin was built and consecrated for worship in 1859.

St Mary the Virgin is a small Victorian chapel situated just inside the grounds of Etal Manor. It was built to honour the husband and daughter of Lady Fitzclarence of Etal Manor, who died within two years of each other and to house the family tomb. In 1971 the chapel ceased to be a private chapel and became part of the Ford parish. 

Chirnside

 

Chirnside is a large hillside village in the Scottish Borders. It is situated on the A6105 about seven miles east of the market town of Duns, nine miles from Berwick-Upon-Tweed and only a mile and a half from the small village of Allanton. The village has stunning views over the Tweed Valley with the Cheviot Hills in the distance. A short distance from the village is the picturesque Bluestone Ford and Whiteader Water. 

The village name is derived from the Cairn which stood on the hill to the east of the village. Close to the church a tower house once stood, built by the Earl of Dunbar. This was demolished in the 18th century. The first paper mill at Chirnside Bridge dats back to 1827, although all that now remains is the old porters lodge. In 1842 the mill was reconstructed and enlarged. During the 19th century the demand for fine paper increased and the mill continued to grow. As the mill grew the village increase in size, becoming a thriving community. 

View Over The Tweed Valley

Chirnside Church

Chirnside Church

Chirnside church dates back to the 12th century, but has been substantially rebuilt and altered. All that remains of the original Norman church is a doorway at the west end. The 12th century church, known as "Ecclesia de Chirnyside was a rectangular building with a thatched roof and earthen floor. 

During the Reformation in the 1500's the church was badly damaged and extensive repairs were carried out in 1573. In 1757 substantial renovations were carried out and a new manse built. In 1904 the church was altered and reshaped by Edward Marjoribanks, a new hall, vestry and new tower were built. 

Chirnside Church

Chirnside Bridge and The Whiteadder Water

Just outside Chirnside on the A6105 to Duns is the small settlement of Chirnsidebridge where the Whiteadder Water flows under the modern road bridge on its way from Preston and Blanerne to Allanton. Beside the river is the Paper Mill and Chirnside Bridge, a disused railway viaduct.

Preston

 

Preston is a small village in the Scottish Borders situated on the A6112 and the B6355 about         miles from Duns. Just outside the village on the road to Duns, Preston Bridge, an 18th century  arched bridge crosses Whiteadder Water. In the village is Nel Logan's Bridge, crossing the Preston Burn. it is claimed the cell below the bridge was used to house Napoleonic prisoners of war before being transported to larger sites. The old Norman parish church was abandoned in 1718 and is now an overgrown ruin.

Graveyard Of The Old Parish Church

Preston Bridge and The Whiteadder Water

Not far from the village on the road to Duns is Preston Bridge, an impressive arched red sandstone bridge spanning the Whiteadder Water. Just below the bridge is a peaceful spot used by angers where the river tumbles over the stony river bed before gently flowing under the arches and on its way to Blanerne and Chirnside. 

Reston

Reston is a linear village stretching along the B6438 close to the A1. This quiet village is about 6 miles from the fishing town of Eyemouth and the nearest village is Auchencrow, about 2.3 miles away. The village is situated beside the East Coast Mainline Railway and was once the junction between the East Coast Mainline and the now closed Berwickshire Railway. The station closed in 1966 but there has been a campaign to reopen the station to run a commuter service to Edinburgh.
 

Reston was originally two settlements, East and West Reston. When the railway station opened in 1846 West Reston developed and became the village of Reston that we know today. The railway was used by children attending High School in Duns and to transport livestock to and from Reston Auction Mart. 

Reston Parish Church

Reston Parish Church

Reston Parish Church was built in 1879 and opened in 1880. It was originally a Free Church of Scotland and retains some box pews either side of the Pulpit. 

Burnmouth

The delightful fishing village of Burnmouth is situated on the east coast about 3 miles from Eyemouth and close to the A1. It is about 6 miles from Berwick-Upon-Tweed and easily accessible by car or bus. The village is on the route of the Berwickshire Coastal Path with spectacular views from the top of the cliffs.

Burnmouth, sited where a burn cuts through the high cliffs is split into two. Upper Burnmouth is situated at the top of the cliff and lower Burnmouth at the foot. Lower Burnmouth stretching along the foreshore is divided into four smaller communities connected by a small road. Lower Burnmouth is reached via an exceptionally steep cliffside road with fabulous views down to the picturesque harbour at the bottom. 

It is thought that in the middle ages there may have been a mill where the burn cuts through the cliffs. It was not until the 1830's that a fishing harbour was built which has been extended twice. On the harbour wall is a large plaque commemorating the victims of the 1881 Eyemouth fishing disaster, in which 24 Burnmouth fishermen drowned. 

Burnmouth Harbour

1881 Fishing Disaster Memorial

Other Places Nearby

Berwick Castle

Coldingham Priory

Coldingham Sands