Dunstanburgh Castle

 

Dunstanburgh Castle is 14th century castle on the Northumberland coast between the villages of Craster and Embleton, about 7 miles from the market town of Alnwick. The castle can only be accessed on foot and is a 1.3 mile walk along a grassy path from Craster. Alternatively it can also be reached from the village of Embleton. The name Dunstanburgh is thought to come from a combination of the local village of Dunstan, and the Old English word "burh", meaning fortress. The castle is owned by the National Trust and is open to the public. 

Dunstanburgh Castle was built between 1313 and 1322 by Thomas, the Earl of Lancaster on the site of the existing earthworks of an Iron Age Fort. Thomas was a powerful English baron and the second richest man in England after the king. He had a difficult relationship with his cousin King Edward II and had been a ring leader in the capture and killing of Piers Gaveston in 1312. It is thought that Thomas built the castle as a secure retreat away from Edward's forces in the south. By the time the castle was completed in 1322 it was the largest castle in Northumberland, with a massive gatehouse and six towers around the outside. A harbour was built on the south side enabling access from the sea. Although Thomas made little use of his new castle in 1322  when Cicil War broke out between Edward and the barons he attempted to flee the south of England for Dunstanburgh. He was intercepted en route by royalist forces and in the resulting Battle of Boroughbridge was captured and executed. The castle subsequently passed to the Crown and was considered to be a useful fortress for protection against the threat from Scotland. 

In 1362 the castle was acquired by John of Gaunt, the third son of King Henry III through his marriage to Blanche of Lancaster, the granddaughter of Henry of Lancaster. Gaunt was extremely wealthy and became the Lieutenant of the Scottish Marches, visiting his castle in 1380. Following the Peasant's Revolt in 1381 Gaunt expanded the defences and blocked up the entrance in the gatehouse to turn it into a keep. The castle was attacked unsuccessfully by a Scottish army in 1384. The castle remained part of the Duchy of Lancaster but In 1399 when Gaunt's son, Henry IV became King the Duchy was annexed to the Crown. 

Over the next few decades the castle fell into disrepair until Henry VI became King in 1422. Numerous repairs were undertaken to the buildings and outer defences. During the Wars of the Roses the castle was initially held by the Lancastrians until it was surrendered to the Yorkists in 1461. Sir Ralph Percy, one of the castle's constable's had defended the castle until it was surrendered to the Yorkists but in 1462 switched backed to the Lancastrian side after Henry VI's wife Margaret of Anjou landed at Bamburgh with a French army. Dunstanburgh was immediately besieged by the Yorkists and surrendered. Percy remained at the castle defending it for the Yorkists, but in 1463 once again switched sides returning it to the Lancastrians. Percy died at the Battle of Hedgeley Moor in 1464 and following a short siege the Earl of Warwick reoccupied the castle. 

In 1470 Dunstanburgh was used as a base for piracy and by the 1520's its roof had been robbed of lead to be used at Wark-on-Tweed Castle, and lead and timbers taken to be used for the moot hall in Embleton. By 1538 the castle was described as being in "a very ruinous state" and although some repairs were carried out by 1543 it was still in a poor condition. From 1594-1597 Alice Craster, a wealthy widow occupied the castle, living in the gatehouse, carrying out restoration work and farming the surrounding estate. 

In 1604 the castle was sold by King James I to Sir Thomas Windebank, Thomas Billott and William Blake, who then sold it the following year to Sir Ralph Grey, a nearby landowner. In 1625 Ralph's son William, Lord Grey was affirmed as the owner of the castle. In 1704 following a law case Dunstanburgh passed into Lady Mary Grey's side of the family. The lands around the castle and outer bailey were used to grow barley and oats and stone was taken from the walls for building work. A small settlement called Nova Scotia was built on the site of the old harbour. 

In 1869 Mary's descendants, the Earls of Tankerville sold the castle to the trustees of the estate of the late Samuel Eyres. The passageway through the gatehouse was modified and reopened in 1885. In 1905 a golf course was built alongside the castle, and in 1919 the estate was sold to Sir Arthur Sutherland, a wealthy shipowner, who opened an additional golf course in 1922. Unfortunately the cost of maintaining the property was too much and in the 1930's he placed the castle into the guardianship of the state. During the Second World War the castle was occupied by a unit of the Royal Armoured Corps and used as an observation post. The surrounding beaches were defended with lines of barbed wire, slit trenches and square weapons pits with concrete pill boxes to the north and south of the castle. In 1961 Arthur's son, Sir Ivan Sutherland passed the estate to the National Trust. It remains under the ownership of the National Trust and is managed by English Heritage. The site is part of a site of Special Scientific Interest and the lands around the outside of the castle remain waterlogged to enable the conservation of amphibians and bird species. 

https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/dunstanburgh-castle/

Other Castles Nearby

Bamburgh Castle

Craster

 

The small fishing village of Craster is situated on the picturesque Northumberland coast 8 miles from the pretty market town of Alnwick. The village lies south of Embleton and the stunning sandy beach of Embleton Bay, and is just over a mile from the impressive ruins of the Dunstanburgh Castle. Craster has a small harbour and for many years has had a herring-curing business. Craster kippers are well known around the world. The village is named after the Craster family who had held the estate since 1272. 

The ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle can be seen from the village and are easily accessed of foot via a 1.3 mile grassy path. Beyond the castle are stunning views of Embleton Bay. In addition to Robson's Smokehouse the village has a cafe and public house, providing much needed refreshment after a bracing walk along the coast. Parking in the village is limited but on entering the village the quarry car park, just a short walk from the harbour is recommended, although it can get full very quickly at weekends and in the summer. At the entrance to the car park is a tourist information centre and public toilets.

Dunstanburgh Castle

Dunstanburgh Castle was built in the 14th century on the Northumberland coast between the villages of Craster and Embleton. The castle was built between 1313 and 1322 by Earl Thomas of Lancaster on the site of an existing earthworks of an Iron Age Fort. Thomas was the leader of a baronial faction opposed to King Edward II and built the castle as a refuge. He was captured at the Battle of Boroughbridge attempting to flee royalist forces for the safety of Dunstanburgh and was executed. Subsequently the castle became the property of the Crown before passing into the Duchy of Lancaster. The defences were expanded in the 1380's by John of Gaunt, the Duke of Lancaster. During the War of the Roses in the 15th century the castle formed a strategic northern stronghold, changing hands between the Lancastrian and Yorkist factions. In 1604 King James I sold the castle to the Grey family who owned it until the 19th century. In 1930 the castle was placed under the guardianship of the state and during the Second World War was used as an observation post. The ruins, which are open to the public are part of a Site of Special Scientific Interest.

Alnmouth

 

The attractive village of Alnmouth is situated on the picturesque Northumberland coast about 4 miles from the market town of Alnwick and 9 miles from Craster. The village with its glorious sandy beaches is located at the mouth of the River Aln with stunning views out to sea. The sand dunes are an excellent birdwatching spot and the beach a wonderful place to while away the hours. Once a busy port the village with its colourful houses and abundant wildlife is now popular with tourists seeking a tranquil place to relax, walk, soak up the history and even play a round of golf. 

The village has a selection of small shops, coffee shops and restaurants and just a short walk away is the attractive harbour and old Ferryman's Hut. The beach is split into three sections within Alnmouth Bay and on the opposite side of the estuary on top of the steep Church Hill is St Cuthbert's Cross, said to be the location where St Cuthbert agreed to become Bishop of Lindisfarne. The beach car park provides easy access to the both the beach and the village.

Alnmouth village (meaning "at the mouth of the River Aln") was founded in 1152 by William de Vesci, who was granted a charter to hold court and establish a settlement on a spit of land in the manor of Lesbury. In the early 13th century Eustace de Vesci was granted royal permission to establish a port and Wednesday fish market. The port supported a small fishing industry and engaged in national and international trade. For a time it was a leading north-east centre for the export of grain and other foodstuffs and specialised in the import of timber and slate. 

In 1806 a violent storm resulted in a notable change in the course of the river, resulting in the loss of the village's original church. The functioning of the port and its associated industries were disrupted and by the end of the 19th century port activities had declined and the port deteriorated. With the coming of the railway Alnmouth was transformed from a fishing port into a coastal resort, with a holiday camp, golf course, bathing house, beach huts and sea-view villas. 

The picturesque village remains a popular holiday destination and in 2020 was rated as among the "20 most beautiful villages in the UK and Ireland".

Hethpool Linn

Hethpool Linn

Hethpool Linn is a beautiful waterfall situated in the Cheviot Hills within the Northumberland National Park. The waterfall forms part of the College Burn near Hethpool in the College Valley,  running through a small gorge and tumbling over rocks before continuing its journey peacefully along the valley floor. It is situated within a small wooded area of the valley close to the hamlet of Hethpool and is crossed via a small wooden bridge. When approaching the waterfall take care of the steep sides. The waterfall can be walked to on its own or part of a longer walk (Hethpool Linn Walk).

Other Waterfalls Nearby

Linhope Spout

Carey Burn Waterfall

Etal

Etal Village

The quaint village of Etal is situated in North Northumberland about 10 miles from Berwick-Upon-Tweed and not far from the battle fields of Flodden.  It lies peacefully on the banks of the River Till and is overlooked by the remains of Etal Castle. The Main Street is lined with picturesque cottages and a thatched pub. Opposite, the Lavender Tea Room serving excellent food is the perfect way to relax and indulge yourself. The castle overlooks the peaceful River Till where walks and picnics beside the river in this idyllic location are a wonderful way to spend the day.

Etal and the neighbouring village of Ford are part of the Ford and Etal Estate, owned by the Joicey Family since 1908. However, a settlement has existed at Etal since at least the 12th century when a manor or estate were granted to the Manners family by the Norman Barony of Wooler in return for military support when needed. The family built first a wooden hall, replacing it with a stone building before building a tower house in 1341 which was extended in 1360 to become the castle, whose remains are seen today. In 1748 the owners moved from the Tower house in the castle to Etal Manor at the other end of the village. 

Etal became a busy village with ferry services across the river and nearby water mills. In the 1700's Etal Colliery was opened about one and half miles to the northeast of the village along with other smaller local mines. By the early 20th century these has all closed and the village was purchased by the 1st Baron Joicey of Chester-Le-Street, creating the Ford and Etal Estate.  

River Till

Etal Castle
Etal Castle was built about 1341 by Robert Manners to defend Etal against the Scots. The Manners family had lived in the village since 1232 and the castle remained in the family until the end of the 15th century when the current owner, George Manners moved his family away and abandoned the castle. During the border wars with Scotland the castle housed a garrison and was used to defend the area. In 1547 the castle was bought from the Manners family by The Crown and in 1603 passed into private ownership. In the 18th century it ceased to be used as a residence and fell into ruin.

The castle is open to the public and is a fascinating insight into life at the castle during the turbulent border wars.

Etal Castle

 

Etal Castle

St Mary The Virgin Church

The first church in Etal was built by Sir Robert manners in 1345 and was located on the banks of the river  a little downstream from the village. By the early 19th century it had fallen into decay. In 1856 the chapel of St Mary the Virgin was built and consecrated for worship in 1859.

St Mary the Virgin is a small Victorian chapel situated just inside the grounds of Etal Manor. It was built to honour the husband and daughter of Lady Fitzclarence of Etal Manor, who died within two years of each other and to house the family tomb. In 1971 the chapel ceased to be a private chapel and became part of the Ford parish. 

River Tweed At West Ord

 

West Ord is a small area on the south bank of the the River Tweed. It is about four miles from Berwick-Upon-Tweed and not far from the village of Horncliffe and the Union Chain Bridge. This small area is largely farmland with a few holiday cottages, however a small road loops from a small road near to the junction with the A698 along the banks of the river to the hamlet of Loanend. 

This serene and unspoilt spot offers fantastic views across the river. On the opposite bank are some attractive fishing shiels close to the grounds of Paxton House. Approaching from the holiday cottages at the top of the hill are breathtaking views of the river valley and countryside opposite.  At the foot of the hill is a parking spot on the grass beside the sheep and the river, the perfect place to picnic or to embark on a picturesque riverside walk. This hidden gem is a truly beautiful, tranquil haven.

Wooler

Wooler is a small attractive market town on the edge of the Cheviot Hills in the Northumberland National Park. It is situated on the A697 between Morpeth and the Scottish Borders. Wooler is a bustling town with many restaurants and coffee shops to sit and relax after a tiring days walking. Wooler is a popular base for walkers and hikers and is a good starting point to explore the Cheviot Hills.

A short drive or walk from the town is Wooler Common. Whether it is a short walk or a few days hiking, its woodland and gentle rolling hills make Wooler common the ideal place to start exploring the Cheviot Hills and the Northumberland National Park. 

The origin of the town's name is uncertain, possibly derived from the name Welnfver, recorded in 1186, which comes from the Old English words “Wella”, meaning well or spring and “Ofer”, meaning ridge or hill. Another possibility is from the the name ‘Wulfa’s hillside, which comes from the Old English personal name Wulfa )Wolf) and Ora (hillside or slope). The name Wulloir was recorded in 1232.

History

The town of Wooler dates back to at least the 11th century although the presence of o nearby Iron Age Hill Fort on Yeavering Bell and smaller Bronze Age settlements suggests that there were settlements in the area long before then. In 1107 the town was said to be "ill cultivated and subjected to a lot of rain" due to its proximity to the neighbouring hills. However, despite its location the town expanded and prospered and in 1199 was granted a licence to hold a market every Thursday.  Wooler Castle, a wooden fort was built on a small hill known today as “Tower Hill” to defend the town from raids by neighbouring Scots. 

Despite the many skirmishes and battles during the border wars the town continued to flourish and towards the end of the 13th century the St Mary Magdalene Hospital was established. In 1402 Scottish soldiers were defeated on nearby Humbleton Hill by an English Knight, Sir Henry Percy (Hotspur). In the 16th century the old wooden fort was replaced with a stone tower. Unfortunately very little remains today and the site is now occupied by the War Memorial. In 1722 much of the town was destroyed by fire, however rebuilding took place and the town improved becoming larger and better. The population increased ,markets selling agricultural produce and livestock grew. and the town thrived. 

War Memorial On Tower Hill

Cheviot Hills From Wooler Common

St Mary's Church

St Mary’s church dates from 1764, although evidence of 12th century stonework suggests that it may have been built on the site of a medieval building. Stained glass windows were added during the Victorian era and In 1913 the church was extended . The chancel added in addition to new furnishings such as, a pulpit, choir stalls and organ. 

St Mary's Church

http://www.yournorthumberland.co.uk/area-guides/wooler

Other Places Nearby

Breamish Valley

College Valley

Harthope Valley

Ingram

The small picturesque village of Ingram is located in the Cheviot Hills on the edge of the Northumberland National Park. The village is situated on a minor road about 3 miles from the A697, sitting beside the River Breamish in the Breamish Valley. Ingram is thought to date from pre Saxon times with evidence on the hills of habitation dating back to the Iron Age. Several Iron Age Hillforts are not far from the village, the most intact being on the top of Brough Law.

Ingram sits beside the pretty River Breamish and consists of village hall, a cafe, which is also an information point and an ancient 11th century church. There are several properties scattered around the village, many of which offer holiday accommodation. The village is a popular place with walkers and hikers and the car park and visitor centre are an ideal place to start a walk up the hills or along the valley. About 4.5 miles from Ingram is Linhope Spout a spectacular waterfall. An excellent walk is from Ingram to Brough Law along the valley. 

River Breamish

Cheviot Hills

Brough Law

St Michael and All Angels Church
This ancient church dates back to the 11th century although it is thought that it was probably busy on the site of a much older pre-Norman church. The border wars and fires saw the church fall into serious disrepair before being restored in the late 19th century. The oldest surviving part of this old church is the bottom half of the tower. 

St Michael And All Angels Church