Friday, 6 October 2023

Dunstanburgh Castle

 

Dunstanburgh Castle is 14th century castle on the Northumberland coast between the villages of Craster and Embleton, about 7 miles from the market town of Alnwick. The castle can only be accessed on foot and is a 1.3 mile walk along a grassy path from Craster. Alternatively it can also be reached from the village of Embleton. The name Dunstanburgh is thought to come from a combination of the local village of Dunstan, and the Old English word "burh", meaning fortress. The castle is owned by the National Trust and is open to the public. 

Dunstanburgh Castle was built between 1313 and 1322 by Thomas, the Earl of Lancaster on the site of the existing earthworks of an Iron Age Fort. Thomas was a powerful English baron and the second richest man in England after the king. He had a difficult relationship with his cousin King Edward II and had been a ring leader in the capture and killing of Piers Gaveston in 1312. It is thought that Thomas built the castle as a secure retreat away from Edward's forces in the south. By the time the castle was completed in 1322 it was the largest castle in Northumberland, with a massive gatehouse and six towers around the outside. A harbour was built on the south side enabling access from the sea. Although Thomas made little use of his new castle in 1322  when Cicil War broke out between Edward and the barons he attempted to flee the south of England for Dunstanburgh. He was intercepted en route by royalist forces and in the resulting Battle of Boroughbridge was captured and executed. The castle subsequently passed to the Crown and was considered to be a useful fortress for protection against the threat from Scotland. 

In 1362 the castle was acquired by John of Gaunt, the third son of King Henry III through his marriage to Blanche of Lancaster, the granddaughter of Henry of Lancaster. Gaunt was extremely wealthy and became the Lieutenant of the Scottish Marches, visiting his castle in 1380. Following the Peasant's Revolt in 1381 Gaunt expanded the defences and blocked up the entrance in the gatehouse to turn it into a keep. The castle was attacked unsuccessfully by a Scottish army in 1384. The castle remained part of the Duchy of Lancaster but In 1399 when Gaunt's son, Henry IV became King the Duchy was annexed to the Crown. 

Over the next few decades the castle fell into disrepair until Henry VI became King in 1422. Numerous repairs were undertaken to the buildings and outer defences. During the Wars of the Roses the castle was initially held by the Lancastrians until it was surrendered to the Yorkists in 1461. Sir Ralph Percy, one of the castle's constable's had defended the castle until it was surrendered to the Yorkists but in 1462 switched backed to the Lancastrian side after Henry VI's wife Margaret of Anjou landed at Bamburgh with a French army. Dunstanburgh was immediately besieged by the Yorkists and surrendered. Percy remained at the castle defending it for the Yorkists, but in 1463 once again switched sides returning it to the Lancastrians. Percy died at the Battle of Hedgeley Moor in 1464 and following a short siege the Earl of Warwick reoccupied the castle. 

In 1470 Dunstanburgh was used as a base for piracy and by the 1520's its roof had been robbed of lead to be used at Wark-on-Tweed Castle, and lead and timbers taken to be used for the moot hall in Embleton. By 1538 the castle was described as being in "a very ruinous state" and although some repairs were carried out by 1543 it was still in a poor condition. From 1594-1597 Alice Craster, a wealthy widow occupied the castle, living in the gatehouse, carrying out restoration work and farming the surrounding estate. 

In 1604 the castle was sold by King James I to Sir Thomas Windebank, Thomas Billott and William Blake, who then sold it the following year to Sir Ralph Grey, a nearby landowner. In 1625 Ralph's son William, Lord Grey was affirmed as the owner of the castle. In 1704 following a law case Dunstanburgh passed into Lady Mary Grey's side of the family. The lands around the castle and outer bailey were used to grow barley and oats and stone was taken from the walls for building work. A small settlement called Nova Scotia was built on the site of the old harbour. 

In 1869 Mary's descendants, the Earls of Tankerville sold the castle to the trustees of the estate of the late Samuel Eyres. The passageway through the gatehouse was modified and reopened in 1885. In 1905 a golf course was built alongside the castle, and in 1919 the estate was sold to Sir Arthur Sutherland, a wealthy shipowner, who opened an additional golf course in 1922. Unfortunately the cost of maintaining the property was too much and in the 1930's he placed the castle into the guardianship of the state. During the Second World War the castle was occupied by a unit of the Royal Armoured Corps and used as an observation post. The surrounding beaches were defended with lines of barbed wire, slit trenches and square weapons pits with concrete pill boxes to the north and south of the castle. In 1961 Arthur's son, Sir Ivan Sutherland passed the estate to the National Trust. It remains under the ownership of the National Trust and is managed by English Heritage. The site is part of a site of Special Scientific Interest and the lands around the outside of the castle remain waterlogged to enable the conservation of amphibians and bird species. 












Other Castles Nearby
Bamburgh Castle

Craster

 

The small fishing village of Craster is situated on the picturesque Northumberland coast 8 miles from the pretty market town of Alnwick. The village lies south of Embleton and the stunning sandy beach of Embleton Bay, and is just over a mile from the impressive ruins of the Dunstanburgh Castle. Craster has a small harbour and for many years has had a herring-curing business. Craster kippers are well known around the world. The village is named after the Craster family who had held the estate since 1272. 

The ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle can be seen from the village and are easily accessed of foot via a 1.3 mile grassy path. Beyond the castle are stunning views of Embleton Bay. In addition to Robson's Smokehouse the village has a cafe and public house, providing much needed refreshment after a bracing walk along the coast. Parking in the village is limited but on entering the village the quarry car park, just a short walk from the harbour is recommended, although it can get full very quickly at weekends and in the summer. At the entrance to the car park is a tourist information centre and public toilets.








Dunstanburgh Castle
Dunstanburgh Castle was built in the 14th century on the Northumberland coast between the villages of Craster and Embleton. The castle was built between 1313 and 1322 by Earl Thomas of Lancaster on the site of an existing earthworks of an Iron Age Fort. Thomas was the leader of a baronial faction opposed to King Edward II and built the castle as a refuge. He was captured at the Battle of Boroughbridge attempting to flee royalist forces for the safety of Dunstanburgh and was executed. Subsequently the castle became the property of the Crown before passing into the Duchy of Lancaster. The defences were expanded in the 1380's by John of Gaunt, the Duke of Lancaster. During the War of the Roses in the 15th century the castle formed a strategic northern stronghold, changing hands between the Lancastrian and Yorkist factions. In 1604 King James I sold the castle to the Grey family who owned it until the 19th century. In 1930 the castle was placed under the guardianship of the state and during the Second World War was used as an observation post. The ruins, which are open to the public are part of a Site of Special Scientific Interest.





Thursday, 5 October 2023

Alnmouth

 

The attractive village of Alnmouth is situated on the picturesque Northumberland coast about 4 miles from the market town of Alnwick and 9 miles from Craster. The village with its glorious sandy beaches is located at the mouth of the River Aln with stunning views out to sea. The sand dunes are an excellent birdwatching spot and the beach a wonderful place to while away the hours. Once a busy port the village with its colourful houses and abundant wildlife is now popular with tourists seeking a tranquil place to relax, walk, soak up the history and even play a round of golf. 

The village has a selection of small shops, coffee shops and restaurants and just a short walk away is the attractive harbour and old Ferryman's Hut. The beach is split into three sections within Alnmouth Bay and on the opposite side of the estuary on top of the steep Church Hill is St Cuthbert's Cross, said to be the location where St Cuthbert agreed to become Bishop of Lindisfarne. The beach car park provides easy access to the both the beach and the village.

Alnmouth village (meaning "at the mouth of the River Aln") was founded in 1152 by William de Vesci, who was granted a charter to hold court and establish a settlement on a spit of land in the manor of Lesbury. In the early 13th century Eustace de Vesci was granted royal permission to establish a port and Wednesday fish market. The port supported a small fishing industry and engaged in national and international trade. For a time it was a leading north-east centre for the export of grain and other foodstuffs and specialised in the import of timber and slate. 

In 1806 a violent storm resulted in a notable change in the course of the river, resulting in the loss of the village's original church. The functioning of the port and its associated industries were disrupted and by the end of the 19th century port activities had declined and the port deteriorated. With the coming of the railway Alnmouth was transformed from a fishing port into a coastal resort, with a holiday camp, golf course, bathing house, beach huts and sea-view villas. 

The picturesque village remains a popular holiday destination and in 2020 was rated as among the "20 most beautiful villages in the UK and Ireland".