Smailholm Tower

Smailholm Tower

Smailholm Tower is a Peel Tower located near the village of Smailholm, about 9 miles from Melrose and 5 miles from Kelso. It stands on Lady Hill, near Sandyknowe Farm with a view over the surrounding countryside. It was originally built as a watch tower, of which there are many along the English and Scottish  The tower is most famously known for its association with Sir Walter Scott who spent much of his childhood at his paternal grandfathers home, Sandyknowe Farm. It is open to the public and provides a fascinating insight into the lives of borders families between the 15th and early 18th centuries. 

The tower is well worth a visit inside, (if it is not undergoing repairs, as it is in 2020-21 - check accessibility) as it has four floors in perfect condition, linked by staircases. From the upper battlements there are stunning views to be had over the surrounding countryside to England and other parts of Scotland. There is an information panel up there that details all the places that are visible (on a good day), including the Eildon Hills, the Cheviots and, apparently, Bamburgh Castle, some forty miles away.

One of the floors contains an interesting display of model figurines that depict characters and scenes from the folk ballads (known as The Child Ballads, as they were anthologised by Francis Child in the latter half of the 19th century) that inspired the youthful Walter Scott during his childhood visits to the tower. The one below is Thomas The Rhymer (see Rhymer's Tower). 

Smailholm Tower was built about 1450 by the Pringle family, a prominent local family who were the warders of the Ettrick Forest. The family lived in the tower until the late 1500's but had a torrid time, suffering at the hands of the border reivers and English soldiers. The tower was attacked on many occasions and cattle and horses stolen. In 1546 English soldiers attacked and sacked the tower, taking away prisoners and cattle. By the late 1500's the family had left Smailholm and moved to Gallashiels. In 1640 the tower was successfully defended against the English by Sir Andrew Kerr of Greenhead. 

In 1646 the Scott family of Harden, near Hawick bought the tower and estate. In the late 1600's they leased it to a kinsman called Walter "Beardie" Scott the great-grandfather of Sir Walter Scott. The Scott family rebuilt parts of the tower but after their move to nearby Sandyknow Farm it was abandoned and left to decay. In 1773, at the age of 18 months Sir Walter Scott, who was a "sickly" child was sent to live with his grandparents at Sandyknowe.  He spent much of his childhood and adolescence exploring the tower and bordering countryside, which the inspiration for his much loved works. 

View From The Tower

Thomas The Rhymer

https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/smailholm-tower/

Towers And Castles Nearby

Greenknowe Tower

Rhymers Tower

Floors Castle

Norham Castle

Norham Castle

Norham Castle is situated on a hill overlooking the village of Norham and the River Tweed. Due to its perilous location on the England/Scottish Border the castle has a very turbulent history. It was one of the most important strongholds in the region, but was also most frequently attacked by the Scots.

Norhan Castle was founded in 1121 by the Bishop of Durham to protect the property of the bishopric in North Northumberland from the Scots. Although in 1136 King David I of Scotland captured the castle it was soon handed back. During another invasion in 1138 the castle was captured again and was substantially damaged, remaining derelict for several decades until the Bishop of Durham ordered it to be rebuilt. In 1174 during a rebellion revolt against King Henry II in which rebels, supported by Bishop Hugh were defeated the castle was relinquished to the crown. In 1197 two years after Hugh's death the castle was given back to Bishop Philip de Poitou who was loyal to King John. However, when Philip died it again reverted to royal control.

The early fourteenth century was a turbulent time for the castle, suffering a large number of unsuccessful sieges by the Scottish army. In 1318 it was besieged at least thirteen times by Robert the Bruce and again in 1319. In 1322 the castle was eventually captured by the Scottish army but when peace was declared it was returned to the Bishop of Durham.

In 1462 during the war of the Roses Norham Castle was held by the Yorkists. Despite a Lancastrian siege the following year the Yorkists retained control. In 1464 support changed to the Lancastrians but this was short lived and the Yorkists soon regained control. In the latter part of the century the castle's defences were again strengthened and in 1497 the castle was besieged by an army of James IV of Scotland. Although the walls were damaged the castle was again repaired.

In 1513 when James IV of Scotland invaded England Norham Castle was immediately under attack. Eventually after several days of pounding and the destruction of the outer walls the castle surrendered. However, a few weeks later James was beaten and killed at the Battle of Flodden and the castle reverted back to English control. The castle was again restored and remained in a good state of repair. It continued to house a strong garrison until an extended state of peace between England and Scotland when the garrison was reduced and the defences allowed to deteriorate. By the end of the century the castle had fallen into a state of disrepair and on the orders of Queen Elizabeth I it was decided that the castle would not be repaired and was allowed to become ruinous.

The tranquility of the castle and its setting inspired JMW Turner to paint the castle on several occasions.

Norham Castle

Norham Castle Entrance

Stone Stairs Inside The Castle

Norham Castle

Painting Of Norham Castle By JMW Turner

www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/norham-castle/

Other Castles Nearby

Etal Castle

Twizel Castle

Berwick Castle

Otford Palace

  

The remains of this once magnificent palace is situated in the pretty ancient village of Otford, near Sevenoaks in Kent and is easily accessible by car or rail. 

Although Otford Palace, often known as the Archbishop's Palace was built in 1514 a large impressive moated manor house had stood on the site for about 600 years. The land was gifted to the Archbishop Wulfred by King Offa of Mercia in the 9th century and a manor house, owned by the archbishops was built. Over the following years the house was enlarged and by the 16th century was thought to be one of the greatest houses in England. 

In 1066 during his march on London William the Conqueror recuperated at the palace. Sir Thomas Becket thought of Otford as his favourite residence and stayed at the palace many times, giving his name to the medieval cistern known as "Becket's Well". In 1348 Edward III brought his entire court to spend five days over Christmas at the palace away from "The Black Death" in London. 

In 1514 Archbishop William Warham instructed the demolition of most of the old building and a new lavish palace, complete with Great Deer Park was constructed. The new palace, was one of the largest in England comparable in size to Hampton Court Palace. 

In 1519 King Henry VIII stayed at the palace and apparently liked it so much that in 1537 Archbishop Thomas Cramner was forced to surrender the palace to him.  Although Henry spent lavishly on the palace his preference was for Knole House in Sevenoaks. When Henry died the palace fell into ruin. In 1761 the North East Tower was demolished, the stonework being used to build Knole Folly, near Knole House. 

The impressive North-West Tower, Lower Gallery (now converted into cottages), the Great Gatehouse and a section of boundary wall are all the remains today.

https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1005197

https://otfordpalace.org

The Farne Islands

The Farne Islands are a group of islands situated off the coast of Northumberland and are a fantastic place to visit to see sea birds (including Puffins), and grey seals in the wild.

The Islands can be reached by taking a boat trip from the village of Seahouses. From the A1 take the B1342 to Seahouses, passing through the village of Warren Hill and the magnificent Bamburgh Castle. When you reach Seahouses there is plenty of parking.

There are a number of islands but it is only on the National Trust islands of Inner Farne Island and Staple Island where you are allowed to spend an hour or so on the islands surrounded by birds. There are a number of companies offering boat trips around the islands. These can be found at the harbour in Seahouses and offer a number of different trips including stops at Inner Farne Island, Staple Island, trips to Holy Island and Sunset Cruises. 

The grey seal trip is an excellent way to view both bird life and the grey seals. This lasts about 1.5hrs and takes you to both the inner and outer islands where you can observe an amazing amount of birdlife including, Cormorants, Shags, Razorbills, Guillimots, Kittiwakes  and Puffins.

A wonderful treat is to watch the grey seals basking in the sun or swimming. The majority of grey seals are found on Longstone Island, home to Longstone Lighthouse, the home of Grace Darling and her family. The Grace Darling museum can be found at Bamburgh and is well worth a visit.

Harbour

Grey Seals On Longstone Rock

Longstone Lighthouse

Inner Farne Island
A trip to Inner Farne Island lasts about 3hrs and takes a trip around some of the other islands before stopping at Inner Farne Island for 1hr. The island is a fantastic place to observe the thousands of birds living on the cliffs or nesting on the ground. From watching the Guillemots,Shags and Kittiwakes on the cliff faces to the attractive puffins waddling around near their burrows an hour spent on the island is a delight. Beware of the irascible Arctic terns nesting neat the jetty and remember to wear a hat. 

Inner Farne Island is the largest of the inner group of islands and is rich in history. Between 676 to 687 the island was home to St Cuthbert, who lived a hermetic life, building a cell and house for visitors. St Cuthbert's Chapel was built in the 1300's by monks of the House of Farne, who managed to cultivate the land and keep livestock. The chapel was used by the monks until the dissolution on the monasteries in 1536. In the 19th century the chapel was renovated to its present state. 

The Pele tower, known as Prior Castell's Tower was constructed in the late 14th century. Thomas Castell was prior of Durham Cathedral when the tower was built to house monks and protect the island from border raids. Following the dissolution of the monasteries the tower was used to house a small garrison. By 1637 the tower had become ruinous and was used as a lighthouse until the construction of the present lighthouse in 1809. 

The views from the Farne Islands of the Northumberland Coast and the magnificent Bamburgh Castle are breathtaking

Arctic Terns

Kittiwakes

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Puffins

Razorbills

Shag

Prior Castell's Tower

Lighthouse

St Cuthberts Chapel

Bamburgh Castle

http://www.farne-islands.com

Billy Shiels Boat Trips

Other Places Nearby

Bamburgh Castle

Holy Island

Dryburgh Abbey

Dryburgh Abbey lies on the banks of the River Tweed not far from St Boswells and Melrose. The remains of this once busy and elegant abbey sit within tranquil gardens making it easy to imagine the serene cannons at work and prayer. The abbey is the burial place of Sir Walter Scott, David Erskine (11th earl of Buchan) and Field Marshall Earl Haig, whose ancestors settled Bermesyde.

Dyrburgh Abbey was founded in 1150 in an agreement between Hugh de Morville, Constable of Scotland and the Premonstratensian Canons and was the first and largest of six monasteries established in Scotland by the Premonstratensian Order of Canons.

Despite it's serene and secluded location the abbey has a turbulent history. In 1322 it was burned by retreating English troops of Edward II following an unsuccesful invasion. During the following decades the abbey was restored and the Canons returned again to a peaceful life. However in 1385 during the invasion of Richard II the abbey was again burned  and almost destroyed. Despite these setbacks the abbey continued to flourish and returned to its peaceful existence. The final blow came in 1544 when both the abbey and town of Dryburgh were destroyed by Edward Seymour, Earl of Hertford, returning again in 1545 to set fire to the abbey once again. This time the abbey was not fully rebuilt and the numbers of Canons remaining slowly dwindled. By 1580 only four remained and by 1584 this number had dropped to two. By 1600 the remaining two monks had died marking the end of the monastery.

In 1786  David Steuart Erskine, the 11th Earl of Buchan purchased Dryburgh House creating a beautiful and serene landscape incorporating and preserving the ruins of the abbey. He is buried in the abbey in the family vault.

Sir Walter Scott and his family are buried in the North Transept of the abbey.  The abbey was once owned by his paternal ancestors, the Haliburtons

Cloisters

             
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North Transept

https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/dryburgh-abbey/

Other Abbeys Nearby 

Jedburgh Abbey

Kelso Abbey

Melrose Abbey

Rye Castle (Ypres Tower)

Rye Castle, also known as Ypres Tower is situated in the pretty and historic town of Rye in East Sussex. Although the exact date is not know it thought that it was built in the 13th or 14th centuries. Although the possibility of a castle in Rye was mentioned in 1226 and 1249 it was not until the early 14th century during attacks by the French that a medieval toll for the building and retaining of town walls was applied for and works carried out. 

The Ypres Tower, originally called Baddings Tower was built to protect the town from attacks by French Invaders. It was probably built in about 1249, however it has been suggested that it may have been built in the late 14th century when the town walls and gates were built. 

In 1377 the French attacked the town, burning, stealing the church bells and killing the inhabitants. Many of the stone buildings were destroyed but the tower survived. In 1430 the tower was leased to John de Ypres for use as a private residence. In the late 14th century the tower was used as a prison and in 1518 a new roof and new floors were added. 

For the next 300 years the tower was used as a Gaol and in 1789 a full time "Gaol Keeper: was appointed and a red brick exercise yard added. In the mid 1800's in an effort to improve conditions a new exercise yard, new cells and a tower for housing women prisoners were added. Over the following years its used was downgraded to a lock-up and was eventually used as a soup kitchen and mortuary, eventually in 1954 opening as a museum.

http://ryemuseum.co.uk